FunkyOtherHalf store closed

But is was mostly empty anyways..


I am leaving the coutry for two months and since the store was mostly empty anyways it will be closed. An end of an era!


FAQs to which the answer is no:

  • Can I order?
  • Can I get TOHKBD?
  • Are you sad to close the store?
  • Will you answer my emails within two hours the coming months?
  • TOHKBD? Can I buy?

FAQs to which the answer is yes:

  • Are you going windsurfing in Chile for two months?
  • Are you sad to close the store?
  • Will current orders be shipped before I go?
  • Will you answer my emails within two weeks the coming months?
  • You happy?


Crowdfunding the carbonfiber Jolla tablet casing!


Jolla has made a beautiful tablet and I thought it would be a good idea to make a protective casing for it!

It is made from carbonfiber, which is mega strong and awesome. It looks like this:


For this project I will have to do a lot of tooling, hence the crowdfunding campaign to make it happen:



  • Carbon sticker?
    No, this is actual carbon+epoxy! It is extremely strong and offers a lot of protection.
  • Will it be for sale here after the campaign?
    Maybe, it depends on a lot of factors. But please do not wait for that and support the campaign!
  • Can I have a custom colour on the inside?
    Probably! Will announce when I have some samples which colours I can provide.
  • Will any kittens be harmed during the production of the casings?
    Probably not.

TOHKBD progress

Dear mr Dirk, when can I expect my TOHKBD?

FunkMaster Dirk, I ordered my TOHKBD two days ago and it is still not here, waddup??

His Funkylisious D to the I to the R and then to the K, I want my TOHKBD and will kill a kitty for every hour it is not here

Can I order a TOHKBD with FM transmitter, Qi and an E-Ink display as backplate????

To start off, please do not kill kitties.

Secondly, I get a lot of very understandable questions from people wanting to know when their TOHKBD arrives. At the point of writing I am doing what I do a lot of the time, waiting on parts. Which is a sucky activity. So I am taking that opportunity to get you guys and gals up to speed on things.


Delivery ETA:

I don’t know. I could give one sure, but it would be based on nothing.


Parts I have here:

– Keyboard PCBs and SMD components
– Casing PCBs and SMD components
– 3D printed frames
– Domesheets
– Backplates
– Boxes

Parts I still need:

– Moar casing PCBs
– Some SMD components
– Bubblewrap baggies

Things to do

– Some PCB assembly (waiting on some resistors, ran out)
– PCB checking (have to first assemble them)- Lots of testing and programming (but first checking)
– Final assembly, packaging and sending


The keypads are ordered, but we have no ETA on when they will be done. We had to do an extra iteration on the flex membrane as the first demo pieces required extremely muscular thumbs to press them. This resulted in some delay, but was absolutely nesseccary and we are very happy with the result.


When the parts are here, assembly will go in batches to reduce the risk of messing up the administration here. (which is a nightmare already) Priority order is Hero – 400 – 200 – 100 – 110 – etc etc- and lastly FunkyOH orders. If you just ordered the TOHKBD a few days ago, please do not expect it to be within a week when we have the keypads. It is a lot of work.


When we have an ETA, we will post this on all channels! All we can do is keep you up to date.

Untill then, please check the
Updates on Kickstarter
Last few pages of the TOHKBD thread
#TOHKBD posts on Twitter


And no, no FM transmitter and E-Ink display backplate. No matter how many kitties you kill.


Cheers and stay Funky,


TOH developing — part 3B: CAD 3D done right (or at least slightly better)

In the previous part (scroll down) I showed some basics in 3D modelling, with all the tools you need to make a simple TOH design.

In the previous part I made so much errors that it resulted in an unusable design. But you knew that already, since you faithfully follow these tutorials. So, to start off: my apologies, I will try to do better. I hope you can forgive me for these shameful errors and give me another chance in helping you with the fine art called 3D CAD modelling.

Ok, this is how it is going to go: I will use the previous tutorial and make changes to the design in such a way that we end up with a usable design. If you haven’t, read that one first. Do it now. Do it.

Step 1 – setting dimensions

Last time we jumped in right away and started sketching, we are not going to do that this time. To design smart upfront, you save hours later. We are going to make a flexible design that is usable later on, so we start off with defining a lot of parameters. This can make a CAD design slower, but in case of TOH-designing the part will never be that complex, no worries.



As I said, defining more is better and will save time later. Important thing to note: it is very very easy to define dimensions with calculations. If you do this upfront, again, will save a lot of time later and reduces the chance you make errors and have to go through you whole design looking for that one error. In this case I defined the total width of my design as being the inside width of the casing and adding twice the wall thickness. Mucho logical! (again: all dimensions are wrong.)

Step 2 – applying dimensions

Use these dimensions throughout your whole design! The first sketch and extrusion now look like this:


I used a slightly different ‘square’ also this time. I like it to be centered and this one does that automatically.



I also extruded down instead of up this time, to better fit with reality. Otherwise I would extrude into my phone, which voids your warranty.

Step 3 – getting obsessive

Next step is to make the side wall. For this I will present two options.


Option 1: Defining the inside wall from phone inside dimensions:



Option 2: Defining the walls from the outside in, from wall thickness dimensions:



Both of these options give exactly the same result in my case, but still one of them is correct and flexible, while the other is fundamentally wrong.

Discuss what you think in this thread or on twitter, the person can explain the best which is wrong, why and how to fix it will win a SolarTOH in his/her favourite colour!

TOH developing — part 3: CAD 3D modelling

In tutorials 1 – 3 (scroll down), I focused on parts, electronics and PCB design. With this knowledge you should be able to make  a basic printed circuit board and can select some nice components to put on top. Now we go to the next step: making a TOH casing to hold your PCB in place.

There are lots of CAD programs out there and basic stuff like Sketchup will suffice. I use SolidWorks (SW), because of the limitless amount of option, strength simulation, movement analysis, but you do not need all that. All the things you really use are:

  1. Select some surface or plane to draw on
  2. Use lines, square and circles to draw what you need and add all dimensions
  3. Extrude your drawing to add material or Cut to remove material
  4. Round off or chamfer edges for a nice finish

To make a good design however, there are some additional steps to include in your design procedure:

  • Making a practical parametric design
  • Determining correct dimension references
  • Including margins
  • Optimizing using parameter calculations

These parts will be handled later, to keep this tutorial short. Lets start with step 1!

Step 1

When making any 3D file, you are first greeted with your XYZ-axis-arrows-indicator-thingy (left bottom) and the three corresponding planes. First step is to determine which plane you want to use. My phone always lays face-up on my desk and the casing touches the desk with the large flat surface. To keep it logical, I thus select the ‘Top Plane’, pretend that is my desk surface and build from the ground up. In SW, you just click the surface and then select ‘Sketch’. Don’t be afraid.


 Step 2

Get out your phone and your trusty caliper. Draw a square and using ‘smart dimensions’ enter the sizes you want.


Note that I centered my square around the origin. I just like to do this, but it is absolutely not necessary.

Step 3

Extrude! BOOM, it is in 3D now! Determine the thickness you want for your application. Or just go for 1mm.



Much wow, you have created a thin slab. So spectacular! But this is just the beginning!

Step 2&3 (again)

Continue on top of your part, selecting the newly created surface as a sketch plane. Trace the outside with 4 lines, or just use the square again. Then make a square inside and determine the wall thicknesses you would like. Extrude that sketch and you end up with a nice TOH bucket



Step 2&3 (again again)

Now we add some holes for the jack and USB plug. Select the top surface and repeat the same as before, but now you select ‘Extruded Cut’ instead of ‘Extrude’.




Cool…. Starting to look like something!

Step 4

Last step for now: round off some edges! Use ‘Fillet’ to make edges round. Select some appropriate radius that looks natural.



That’s it! All further design is just a repetition of these steps untill you have the design you want! Please do not blindly copy the values here, as they are wrong. This is a tutorial, not a free ride. You are here to learn!

Next time we go deeper!

TOHKBD Kickstarter campaign

Exciting times!!! The time has come and it is now or never for the TOHKBD!


Andrew, Kimmo and I have been working hard -and will continue to do so in the future- to make the dream of every Jolla user a reality: the ultimate typing experience!

Get a sneak preview on the Kickstarter page that is awaiting review by Kickstarter itself (unexpected hick-up) and will go live in a matter of days. There is a lot of info and fancy animations there. On TMO you can also find a lot of info, there is even a search function, so you can use you mad google skillz to get the answers you want as fast as possible!



If something is still unclear you can ask me directly on IRC. To streamline this operation please follow these steps:

  1. Look if the answer to your question is on the Kickstarter page, TMO or any other googlable place. There have been A LOT of questions in the past, so yours has probably been asked and answered before
  2. If you have sought very hard but could not find it, log in to the page below
  3. Wait a few minutes before asking your question, I might be in the midst of a discussion with someone else. Just sit-back and enjoy the conversation untill the way is clear and I can completely focus on answering you!
  4. Keep your question reasonably short and in somewhat readable english

And don’t forget: we design on a demand-base, so if you -and a lot of other people- want something, we will look into it! But some things are not possible for practical reasons, within the budget, impossible on a small scale production, or just go against our design-philosophy. Please be understanding if/when you get a ‘no’.



*to be added during IRC session*


Media coverage:

Digital Trends

TOH developing — part 3: Basic component selection

To complete this tutorial you need:
– 1 x Jolla
– 1 x BreadboardTOH or 1 x MyHalf or lots of copper wiring, tape and a solder iron
– 1 x pc with interwebs connection

Goal of this tutorial is to end up with a basic working prototype of your first TOH.


Getting to know your phone

Your phone has 6 pogo-pins on the back, a USB port and a 3.5 jack. This gives us:
– power in/out
– data in/out
– sound out

This would be an excellent time to read paragraph 2.2 to 2.2.5 of the Developer-Kit. It is just 1.5 pages and has all the info you need.


Example 1: PowerTOH (using DCin)

The DCin port needs 5V and can take a max of 1000ma. But you already know that, because you’ve read the paragraphs mentioned above.
Anyway, if you supply power to DCin port, but can not provide enough power, the voltage will drop accordingly, but it will still charge. So no biggie if the selected parts will supply less.

As power-source we will use a Li-ion battery, which will provide us with 3.7V. This is not enough (3.7<4.3), so we will need some voltage step-up booster to give 5V and finally a switch seems like a good idea.

Sparkfun is a good place to shop for components, but places like Ebay, Adafruit and many more have lots of fun stuff. So, google ‘sparkfun li-ion‘, ‘sparkfun switch‘ and ‘sparkfun step-up‘. Choose a large battery, because there is a lot of power lost in conversions. Choose a switch that is not ‘momentary’, otherwise you have to keep it pushed in all the time. Choose a step-up that is able to use 3.7V and goes to 5V with as much milli-amps as possible.

Select some fine components and solder it all together, that is it. Seriously.

@unpixels has made such a proto



Example 2: BoomboxTOH (using 3.3V out and audio jack)

Phone speakers are generally not really loud and not of great quality. This is inherently due to the restricted size. The audio port is strong enough to power some earplugs or headset, but hooking this up to bigger speakers will not shake a stadium. To quote XKCD:

The developer kit tells us that the 3.3V pin can deliver preferrably below 150ma, or 300ma for short periods of time. Going with max power we have 3.3V*0.3A=1 Watt. Googling for ‘stereo amplifier breakout’ gives us a nice product from Adafruit. It can deliver up to 2.8 Watts, so run it at half volume if you do not want your phone to protect itself by shutting down. It runs at 5V, so hook it up to the step-up booster found in Example 1! Connect it on your BreadboardTOH with a 3.3 jack breakout or cut up an audio cable you have laying around and solder it all together. Hook ANY speakers up to it.



Example 3: Digital clock (using 3.3V and I2C pins)

Adafruit has this one, which looks nice! Looking on the product page there is not a lot of data on the product, but there is a LINK to a hookup guide.

Quoting and commenting on:


Next up, let’s wire it up to an Arduino. We’ll be using an Arduino. Or a Jolla obviously!

  • Connect CLK to the I2C clock – I2C clock means the SCL pin
  • Connect DAT to the I2C data – I2C data means the SDA pin
  • Connect GND to common ground
  • Connect VCC+ to power – 5V is best but 3V will work if that’s all you’ve got (it will be dimmer) Will come back on this later
  • Connect Vi2c to your microcontroller’s logic level (3-5V) – Connect to 3.3V

Both Vi2c and Vcc MUST be connected to 3 to 5VDC! Vcc is for the LED driver power, Vi2c is what sets the logic level for communication to the chip.

Three thing are to be discussed to make this work:

1. I2C level

The Jolla’s I2C pins run at 1.8V, while we want to run this part on 3.3V. Without boosting the I2C level, this will not work. If you use the BreadboardTOH or MyHalf, there is already a I2C level-converter on board, so you can just use the SDA-3.3V and SCL-3.3V pins. Otherwise, also use an I2C level-converter breakout.

2. VCC+

If you want to save power and are happy with a dimmer display, just hook it up to 3.3V. If you want to go all out, use a step-up booster and supply it with 5V.

3. Software.

This will be discussed in a later tutorial!


That’s it for now! Scroll through all the parts at Adafruit and Sparkfun to get some inspiration for you first project and use your mad google skillz to hook it up!

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